Memories of Potter Orr - June 2017
My great-grandparents Mr. and Mrs. Frank H Simpson first came
to Charlevoix in the early 1900s. While I do not know exactly what year they
started coming, but the Belvedere Hotel register from the summer of 1913
survives and I found their names on the page for August 13. As was customary in
those days everyone who was staying in the room was listed on the register.
That included both my great-grandparents and their four daughters, one of whom
was Eleanor Simpson, later Eleanor Orr.
I’m sure they left Cincinnati to avoid its lovely summer
weather in those days before air conditioning existed. The Belvedere hotel had
been designed specifically to entice visitors to Charlevoix in the hopes that
they would buy cottages on the resort. It worked. In 1920 the Simpsons bought
cottage 511.
I’ve not been able to trace the exact construction date of
511 but a hand-painted postcard from 1906 shows it in the stucco and beam
configuration that I have known all my life. There are, however, pictures of
the cottage from an earlier time when the outside was plain wooden siding
painted a lovely olive drab color. When we made changes to the cottage in 2002
and had to remove part of the stucco, those olive color boards were found
underneath. In 1920 the cottage had three
family bedrooms, two servants rooms and one more small bedroom. In addition, it
had one bathroom upstairs at the end of the hall and a half bathroom on the
semi-enclosed back porch.
The Simpsons (my great-grandparents ) had one son,
Harold, in addition to the four sisters. Although he was not with the family in
the hotel in 1913, he must of been a regular visitor at 511. The story goes
that the owner of the cottage next-door, number 509, was an avid fisherman. As
such, he liked to rise early in the morning for the prime early fishing. One
day he came over to 511 and asked if anyone there would like to buy his
cottage. He said that the Simpson clan was so loud and partied so late that he
could not get to sleep early enough for his planned hour of awakening. He asked
the Simpsons first about buying the cottage since he could not imagine that
anyone else would be interested. Harold must have decided that he was either
not going to inherit the cottage or did not want to wait that long so he bought
509. His grandchildren, the Bemises and Parrishes
own that cottage today.
I don’t know exactly how it came about but my grandmother
Eleanor Simpson Orr inherited 511 from her mother the first thing she did was
tackle the bathroom situation. One small bedroom at the head of the stairs was
split into two full bathrooms (showers only) which doubled the plumbing in the
house.
This change did reduce the cottage to two bedrooms for
the family since in common with many of her generation, she would never have
considered going to Charlevoix without Emma, Catherine and Lafayette, the maid,
cook and butler/chauffeur respectively.
In addition to brother Harold in the cottage next-door,
one of my grandmothers sisters, Fran Simpson Cartwright, owned cottage 515.
This was a typical old frame cottage on the site now occupied by the more
modern Trulaske (formerly Connett) cottage. Her husband Bill Cartwright love to
sit in his rocking chair on the porch looking across the mouth of the channel
directly at what is now the Coast Guard station. He also considered it his
mission in life to control speeding in the channel. He was possessed of a
wonderful bellowing voice and when he thought someone was going too fast in the
channel he would yell for them to slow down. If they failed to comply, he kept
a small brass carbide cannon next to his chair and he would pull the lanyard.
This cannon fired blanks but was incredibly loud and the sound echoed very
nicely back and forth across the channel. It was astonishing how quickly the
boats would slow down in response to this treatment.
My Orr grandparents in 511, of course, spent their
summers on the Belvedere even during prohibition. The proximity of Charlevoix
to Canada (who had nothing to do with the prohibition silliness) was an
additional incentive. There were a number of bootleggers who would take off in
fast speed boat from Charlevoix and make a run to Canada. Full to the brim with
Canadian liquor they would make the nighttime run back to Charlevoix. My
grandmother Orr was a very good customer of one of the local bootleggers and
was often regaled with his tales of avoiding the Feds. One night on his return
he pulled into a Belvedere boathouse only to find a federal revenue agent
waiting for him. Seeming to have no choice, even before tying up he invited the
agent aboard. As the Revenuer stepped from the dock to the boat, the boat was slammed
into reverse and the engine gunned. This left a very wet federal agent floating
in the boathouse and provided time to dock elsewhere and unload all the
evidence.
Libby and Wally Rowe from Cincinnati were very good
friends of the Orrs in 511. One summer during prohibition they were invited to
visit. At the time there was actually air service between Cincinnati and Charlevoix
using the venerable DC-3 planes. The only problem with this was the weather
between Cincinnati and Charlevoix. Not being able to fly above most weather as
jets are these days, the DC-3s had to pick their way between thunderstorms that
like to inhabit the Ohio Indiana border. Since it was prohibition the Rowes were
bringing a particularly fine bottle of scotch as a house present. Their plane
was severely bounced for most of the flight and they needed something to calm
them. By the time the plane touched down in Charlevoix, the house present had
been completely drained. They had a nice visit Charlevoix anyway little
suspecting that their granddaughter, Sandy, would marry into this very cottage
30 or so years later.
In the early 1940s Irene and Dick Leatherman from
Robinsonville Mississippi bought cottage 519 which was just across the small
driveway circle from 511. They were almost exactly the same age as the Orrs and
shared the same interests - golfing and partying. Irene Leatherman had a first
cousin named Irene Bond whose parents died when she was a teenager. She went to
live with her aunt and uncle and first cousin Irene Morrow (Leatherman). That
meant that there were two girls only a year apart both with the first name of
Irene living in the same house. It made for great confusion but also for these
two cousins feeling like sisters. Irene Bond later married Walter McDonnell and
at about the same time that Irene Leatherman and bought a cottage in Belvedere,
Irene McDonell did as well. The McDonnell-Hill part of the family has also
become a large presence on the resort.
My father, Jim Orr, spent many of his early summers at
511 and was often thrown together with Kate Leatherman since their respective
parents were such good friends. Kate was four years younger than Jim and
treated by him with the usual disdain of somebody that much younger.
After a few years of staying home to work in the summers,
Jim came back Charlevoix at age 20 and was greatly surprised to see what had
become of the little girl from next-door. Kate was now 16. They were married
three years later. This Belvedere marriage,
or merger, while not unique, was one of the larger ones for Belvedere. My
family on both sides had a lot of members of the club.
My birthday is in October and I always add an extra year
to the amount of time I have spent in Charlevoix since I know for sure that I
was there in utero during the summer of 1947. I’ve had the wonderful good
fortune to have been in Charlevoix at least a portion of every summer since
then.
My childhood summer routine was fairly simple. I would
come to Charlevoix around July 1 and spend the month of July with one
grandmother. At the end of the month I would pack my worldly belongings and
trudge across the back circle to spend August with the other grandmother. Even
as a child I recognized that this was a pretty sweet deal. What did not dawn on
me until I had children of my own was that this left my parents childless all
summer.
When I was young the trip from Cincinnati to Charlevoix
was always a trial. Going north in the early 1950s made for a very long day as
no interstate highways had yet been built. In addition to driving my parents
crazy with the typical childhood question of “are we there yet”, the hilly two
lane roads provoked multiple bouts of car sickness.
There was an alternative that I got to use a couple of
times, an overnight train from Cincinnati to Petoskey. The best of those rides
was the summer when I was eight years old. Mother drove my brother Ted and I to
Union terminal just outside downtown Cincinnati. We waited on the platform as
the overnight train from Memphis pulled in. Mother got on the train only long
enough to deliver us to one of grandmother Leatherman’s child handlers. She was
already ensconced in a large bedroom on the train with three of my Leatherman
first cousins - Dick, Mary and Irene. Adding my brother and I meant the poor
nurse had to cope with five children ranging in age from 4 to 8 during that
overnight train ride. Our nurse did have one advantage not available today. Proverbs
13:24 “Whoever spares the rod hates
their children, but the one who loves their children is careful to discipline them”.
Every nurse I can remember as a child was a staunch believer in that passage.
Although I cannot remember ever being spanked by either of my parents, they did
hire professionals to do it for them. Being the oldest I’m sure that I got more
than my fair share of the spankings but I loved all my nurses just the same.
Only once did I get what I believe was an unjustified spanking.
My grandmother Leatherman had the same theory about
servants in Michigan as my grandmother Orr. She actually would have four in
residence most of the summer. In addition to a cook, a maid and a chauffeur,
she would bring a nurse to take charge of all the grandchildren. Cottage 519
had two bedrooms and a bathroom added onto the back of the first floor of the
cottage to house grandchildren and their nurse. The only downside of this
arrangement was that these rooms were reached by a door at the end of the
dining room. Family alone would fill at least half fill the dining room every
evening and many nights friends or other relatives filled the table completely.
Dinner was usually served late and the well lubricated
group did not exactly whisper at the table. This would often wake me up and I
naturally wanted to join the fun. Since the door to the dining room was right
next to the door to my room I soon learned to operate the doorknob and became a
problem. Not long after a latch was installed in that door about 5 feet up and
ended my adventuring.
Following southern tradition, children at the Leatherman
cottage ate their meals in the kitchen and of course much earlier than the
adults. We learned early that if we planned to enjoy the wonderful southern
biscuits produced for almost every meal we had to guard them carefully. Many
adult relatives, especially Bobby Morrow, would come through the kitchen while
we were eating dinner and biscuits of the unwary have a habit of disappearing.
By the time I was aware of appliances, it was 1952 and
like most houses at that time both our house in Cincinnati and 519 had an
electric refrigerator. The back porch at 519, however, was absolute magic to
young child. In addition to the electric refrigerator there was a genuine
icebox. It had no plug but two or three times a week the ice truck would pull
up the back door and a man would come in with a particularly evil set of
looking set of metal tongs carrying a cube of ice about a foot square to the
icebox. Soft drinks and beer were kept in the icebox and every evening at
cocktail hour the ice bucket was filled by using an ice pick to chip off of
those blocks. We would beg for chips of that ice to suck. I always thought that
ice tasted special but at the time I had no idea why. Later I found out that
the blocks that came to our house had started life as huge blocks sawn from the
frozen lake Charlevoix each winter. Since it came out of the lake frozen and
remained that way until consumed there was no filtering or purification
involved. I’m sure that in wintertime the lake water was pretty pure but it may
also have served to bolster our young immune systems.
Up until 1960 when it was torn down, the Belvedere Hotel
was an ongoing attraction for children living on the resort. The counter in the
lobby of the hotel stocked a huge selection of candy. In those days the
proverbial “two nickels to rub together” was a fortune that merited a trip
across Belvedere Avenue to buy candy. Loose change left on countertops made its
way to the hotel. In addition, a couple times a week a huge bingo game was held
in the main part of the hotel. On some occasions we would be allowed to attend
the bingo game in hopes of winning a fortune to spend the candy counter. These
were the good old days and no child was allowed in the hotel parlor in the
evening for bingo unless they were dressed in their Sunday finest. It is now an
awful lot of years later, but I swear I never one a bingo game in my entire
young life.
All through the 1950s and 60s (and perhaps a little
later) many of the residents of Belvedere brought household servants with them
to Charlevoix. The tradition of the time was that servants had Thursday and
Sunday off. In addition, at least half of the cottages with servants would
contribute the loan of a car for the days off. While I never got to hear all of
the details I often wondered who had the most interesting social lives during
the summer the resort members or their help. Caravans from the Belvedere saw
all of the sites of northern Michigan on those Thursdays and Sundays. Parties
on Sunday nights resulted in many bleary eyes on Monday mornings.
One of the cardinal sins for any Belvedere member was
“poaching” the servant of another member. For many years my grandfather Dick
Leatherman brought his chauffeur/butler and right hand man, Woody B, to Charlevoix.
Over the course of several summers Woody developed a romantic interest in the
young lady who worked for Dick Moss. Either as a result of that interest or an
offer from Dick Moss (I still have no desire to take sides), Woody B moved to
St. Louis and went to work for Mr. Moss. Prior to this incident Dick Moss and
Dick Leatherman had been best friends but afterwards they were estranged for several
years.
The merchants of Charleroi all figured out in short order
how the system worked for most Belvedere residents. The Neff Brothers grocery
store had it down to a science. They established a charge account for any
Belvedere cottage owner who wished to have one. They would take orders by phone
from each cottage’s cook and would then deliver the groceries. While we never
knew for sure, it seemed clear that this was a profitable enough business in
the summer months to carry the store on your round. This was confirmed for me
one year when my mother and father came back from a skiing trip in Vail
Colorado and told me that in the chairlift line they had run into Mr. Neff from
Charlevoix.
Perhaps one of the biggest changes I’ve seen in the
resort during my lifetime is the almost total disappearance of live-in help. As
mentioned above, when I was a child there was a huge population of help on the
resort and there almost none left. It is by and large representative of the
change in lifestyle over the years that has left most cottage owners with a
number of very small bedrooms. For most of us this is not a problem, we just
stick small children in the in those rooms.
I need to do some research to find out exactly when gang
was started. It seems odd to me that I don’t know the answer to that question
but certainly he was going strong by 1952. No adult in any part of my family would
countenance the concept of a gang age child not going to gang, but I couldn’t
wait to leave the house in the morning. Friends that you see for only a portion
of the year and that under the best conditions imaginable for children are the
best and most long-lasting of friends. A couple of years ago playing golf on
the Belvedere I looked around at the foursome and realized that I had been playing
games with the same guys for over 60 years.
Gang activities have changed over the years. When I was a
gangster, in addition to tennis, golf and swimming, someone thought sailing was
very important. The club’s fleet of sailboats at the time were called Rockets
and they were all wooden boats of about 15 feet. We had sailing lessons at
least two half-days each week and two full-scale sailboat races each week in
addition. The lessons included classroom time learning to tie a variety of
sailing knots and learning the precise name of each component of the boat and
each part of the sail. In the races each boat was skippered by a gangster with
an adult advisor on board. Careful tally was kept during the summer of the
number of victories for each skipper and a trophy was awarded at Cabaret at the
end of the year.
During the 50’s and 60’s the resort was able to attract college
graduate students as gang leaders. Bobby Schrock was a gang leader of mine he
was in medical school. One year big gang leader was a gentleman named Dave Sime.
During that summer he did an awful lot of running, some of it wearing small
belts of lead weights around his ankles. One day he challenged me to a race
along the flat stretch of Ferry Avenue from the casino down towards the
sidewalk to the beach. He would run and I got to ride my bicycle. I lost,
badly. Not long after that I found out why. Dave was training for the Olympics
and he would very shortly become the co-holder of the world’s record for the 100
yard dash - 9.3 seconds. This also gave him the title of “World’s
fastest man”.
Another big change in gang has been overnights. The 1950s
and 60s were both a safer time and far less litigious. Our gang overnights were
always well away from the resort, sometimes a long way away and at least once a
year while I was in big gang we did two night overnights. The 2 nighter I remember best was in the
campground at Waugoshance Point State Park.
This point juts far west into Lake Michigan to form the southwest edge
of the straits of Mackinack. The big Mac
bridge is visible from almost everywhere in the park.
I believe in gang is the most important facet of life on
the Belvedere. Each succeeding generation of children are taught the important
skills required for enjoying the northern Michigan summer. But there to even
more important factors. First, the friendships developed among gang members
last a lifetime. Knowing that returning to Belvedere will give you an
opportunity to again see lifetime friends is a real incentive to come north of
the summer. Second, gang allows young parents to actually have a vacation. Many
newly married young adults would often like to go somewhere for vacation other
than where their parents have always taken them, but they realize that if they
go back to Belvedere the kids can go to gang. Finally, Belvedere is one of the
few places left in the world where relatively young children can be allowed to
go free range. Almost as soon as they are old enough to know how to swim, kids
can be safely set free within the confines of the resort. We really are a
family in the sense that almost all adults would happily discipline someone
else’s children if they thought they needed.
1960 at Belvedere was shaping up to be a very perilous
year resort. Gang up until then had ended for children once they passed age 12.
That year there were nearly 20 of us baby boomers would turn 13. The powers
that be were justifiably frightened of that many children that age running
unsupervised on the resort. The answer was simple, teenage gang. Butch Mullen
had just been married and was in graduate school. He and his wife Ann were
quite happy to have the job as team gang leaders for the summer. There was some
initial reluctance among the kids but all the parents were able to maintain a united
front and we went off to teen gang. Truth be told, it was an awful lot of fun.
Butch had been a gangster himself and he knew the drill. Teen gang was an extension of the activities
we all enjoyed all our lives with some slightly more adult activities thrown
in. I remember a group of us complaining bitterly that we did not want to have
bridge lessons as that was an activity for old people. Butch’s reply was very
straightforward: “As an activity with
your friends necking won’t last but bridge will”.
As our group reached 16 and mostly had summer jobs, teen
gang faded away. It has been revived from time to time whenever a dangerously
large number of 13-year-olds might be coming to Belvedere.
Even when we were 16 and 17 there would often be a lot of
us on the resort at the same time during the summer and while we couldn’t quite
be corralled for teen gang, perhaps we should have been. I’m sure that for the
entire history of the resort 16 and 17-year-olds have done plenty of stupid
things and we were no exception.
One year the Retherfords bought a new Century speedboat
mostly for the use of daughters Lee and Lynn. The water skiers among us were
awed by the amazing power of this new boat and decided that it could probably
pull a lot of water skiers at once. After scavenging equipment from practically
every boathouse and an hour or so of logistics we found that it was possible to
arrange 10 skiers behind a single boat. It turns out that there really isn’t
room for 10 skiers behind a single boat but only two of them fell off and for
about a half a mile we actually had eight people pulled out of the water skiing
behind a single boat with no drowning.
In response to someone’s dare a group of us decided that
we could swim from Two Mile point back to the Belvedere Beach. Those not
directly involved in this insanity did at least come up with two or three boats
to motor slowly alongside the swimmers to make sure we didn’t lose anybody.
This would actually have worked out quite well except that this was during the
period when the lakes were infested with lamprey eels. Now lampreys actually
have no interest in warm-blooded creatures however they don’t know we are
warm-blooded until after the attempt to attach themselves. Being attacked in
mid-lake is not conducive to successful swimming so it was good that we had the
safety boats alongside.
Another day while swimming from anchored boats in Loeb’s Cove, we noticed
that on the bottom just at the edge of the drop off were hundreds of clams.
This was in the days before the zebra mussels and these were big clams
typically 3 to 4 inch long shells. They certainly looked like they ought to be
edible so we spent a good part of an afternoon harvesting about four dozen of
them. Chipper Ransom’s family had a cottage outside Belvedere on a hilltop just
off the Boyne City Road. This was a favorite party spot since no one could see or
hear us and we adjourned there with our clams. Over the next several hours we established
to everyone’s satisfaction that while these clams were fortunately not
poisonous, they were in no way edible. We boiled, we steamed and we fried. None
of it helped.
We were very close knit group and almost never would we
embark on an adventure if everyone in the group couldn’t come along. Sudi Ware (Alexander)
had a little better sense than most of us and on several occasions she was able
to sidetrack a particularly stupid venture. She was from San Antonio and her
mother always brought a nice lady along from Texas to supervise the children -
still including Sudi. When she thought
we were really going off the rails, Sudi would announce that she needed to call
home and check for permission. Asking for permission always took place in
Spanish which none of the rest of us could understand. After a prolonged conversation
Sudi would turn to us and say with a terribly disappointed look on her face
that she wasn’t allowed to go. We didn’t want to leave her behind so we would
abandon the project. I found out much later that in most cases that Spanish
conversation consisted of Sudi saying “these guys want to do something really
dumb, would you please be so good as to forbid me?”
When I was 16 I managed to arrange for my girlfriend to
come and visit me in Charlevoix. Sandy Rowe came and stayed in 511 subject to the
fairly lax chaperonage of my grandmother Orr. Being an athlete and adventurer Sandy
fit quite nicely into my group of friends on the resort. As of this writing she
has been coming to the Belvedere for 54 years. By the standards of my most
diehard friends, this still qualifies as a “short timer” but I never mention
that to her.. She did tell me later that after spending time in Charlevoix she
decided that she really ought to try and hang on to me so that she could
return. In addition to my huge crowd of relatives on the resort, it turned out
that Sandy had a relative there as well. Betty Forker was Sandy’s father’s
first cousin.
At age 16 I was clearly not thinking long term but Sandy’s
visit may well have amounted to the well-known resort institution called the “Belvedere
test”. Over the years I have seen many long-term denizens of the resort in
their early 20s bring a serious significant other for a visit. I’m sure that
almost none of the guests realized that they were being tested but not fitting
in on the resort is often a disqualification for further consideration as a
mate. The test can be a major challenge
as breaking in to a group that has known each other their entire lives if not
easy.
In the 1960s most people stayed in Charlevoix until Labor
Day and at the end of the season when all tournaments have been concluded, the
resort staged a huge party at the casino- Cabaret. This was a homegrown musical show in the
platform for the distribution of innumerable trophies. Cabaret in the summer of
1964 was a musical about the upcoming presidential election. Two different
groups of cavemen were lobbying for either Goldrock or Johnstone. My first and only musical adventure was in
this cabaret. Everyone who heard me agreed that singing out loud in public was
something I should avoid the rest of my life. We did have a great time with the
cabaret including building a 16 foot long dinosaur of papier-mâché made from
newspapers over chicken wire over a wooden frame. Just because we thought it
would be fun (albeit not realistic) we decided that this needed to be a fire breathing
dinosaur. A plumber’s propane torch in the dinosaurs mouth seemed like a really
good idea until the dinosaur caught fire.
I count myself very lucky that even after my teenage
years were over I still have the opportunity to come to Charleroi every summer.
As soon as my children were old enough they went off to gain every single day.
Daughter Mimi spent a couple of summers as a gang leader and son Jimmy was a
teen gang leader for two summers. Now I’m able to send my grandchildren off to
gang. They are the six generation of the family to stay in 511 and they have
the rare privilege of getting to play with some of their fourth cousins.
With these young ones in gang I spent a little more time
at the Belvedere Beach that I have for quite a few years. I have noticed that much of the equipment in
use today for the gang at the beach is exactly the same as what I used in gang.
I remember as a very young gangster taking trips in the Grumman aluminum
canoes. 60 years later they look none the worse for wear. As I’ve recently been
going through old photographs in an effort to organize and conserve, I found a
picture of myself on the beach merry-go-round when I was two years old. The big
slide on the beach has been there just as long. Each of the resort spared no
expense in both the very best or more likely manufacturing standards for
practically everything were just a bit higher 65 years ago.
Like most native Belvederians I have very different
standards as to what constitutes swimmable water than most of the world.
Anything at 65° or higher seems just fine to me. I count is lost in the day
that I’m unable to spend time either in or on one of the lakes. I’ve been paying
careful attention to the lakes long enough to have seen their natural cycles
and a lot of changes-both good and bad.
The Great Lakes as a whole a remarkable for the volume of
water that they hold practically since their drainage basin is relatively
small. The cottage at 519 had a wonderful card table the top of which was a map
of the Great Lakes. A thin dotted line surrounding the entire system showed the
limits of the drainage basin, the area whose rainfall drains into the Great
Lakes. That line extends only about a third of the way down the state of Ohio,
anything soft about line ending up in the Ohio River. In Illinois, the line is
also surprisingly close to Lake Michigan with any water falling in the Western
portion of the state draining to the Mississippi River instead. One of the
attractions Charlevoix in the summer is both the cool weather and the lack of
extended periods of rain that might spoil our outdoor activities. To keep up
the lake levels, we depend on winter storms which we fortunately do not have to
personally endure. Even so, the level of the Great Lakes (and Lake Charlevoix
which is attached) vary wildly.
There is a rough 20 year cycle between the highest and
lowest water levels but that cycle is so long that many forget. I remember
prognostications of doom in the middle 1960s when the lake was at historic
lows. In those years if you walked to the end of the waterskiing dock placed
south of the Belvedere Beach and jumped into the water you would find it only 6
inches deep. Dredging was required in all of the boathouses to make them usable
and it was a very long step down into every boat. Many people assured me that
the days the Great Lakes were over and they were on the path to dry up completely. Fast forward about 20 years to 1985 and we
find Lake Charlevoix within an inch or two of covering the road behind the
casino that leads to the beach. Now we were building add-ons to sit on top of
the existing docks in each boathouse because the normal ones were underwater
and building sandbag barriers behind the Casino. More tales of gloom and doom
were bandied about some people were certain that within another two years we
would have no beach left at all. Since then the lake levels have wandered up
and down within the boundaries of normal. A couple of years ago we were very
low when the Detroit River was dredged increasing the outflow into Lake Erie at
the same time the Chicago River was reversed to provide extra water to support
barge traffic on the Mississippi. This double whammy took our lakes way down
but now they have recovered to the point where we needed to dump additional
rock along the shoreline between the casino and the channel. I expect further
changes.
It is been interesting over the years to observe not just
the level of water in the lakes but also the content. As the St. Lawrence River
in the lower Great Lakes have been opened to oceangoing ships, a variety of
unwelcome visitors joined us. Sometime about the middle 1960s a creature called the
lamprey eel found its way into the Great Lakes. The lamprey is a very primitive
parasitic fish, although it is technically not considered a fish since it has a
cartilage cord instead of an actual backbone. The eel feeds by attaching itself
using a suction cup type of mouth to the side of a regular fish. Once attached
it slowly sucks all of the blood out of the fish killing it. Once the host is
gone, the eel looks for another one. These eels have no natural enemies in the
Great Lakes and they nearly drove our largest fish, Lake Trout and lake
whitefish to extinction. When those populations were nearly gone, the eels
moved on to smallmouth Bass and even lake perch. Having caused the problem in
the first place human beings have tried to fix it. Eels like many other
creatures surviving in the lakes and oceans prefer to spawn in smaller streams.
The first approach was to install electric fences across the mouths of the
primary breeding streams and rivers. These fences always had an opening at one
end and most fish were able to sense the electric current and find the opening.
The lampreys with their very primitive nervous systems were unable to detect
the electrical field before swimming in it and being killed. While the system
was a help it was too expensive to put on every little stream. Fortunately
someone was able to develop a powdered poison to be dropped into smaller
streams that would suffocate eel larvae in the streambed without adversely
affecting other fish.
Once the population was reduced to a manageable level it
was time to attempt to rebuild the population of Lake trout and whitefish.
Unfortunately about that time the next unwelcome visitor arrived - the alewife.
This is a nasty little 5 inch long fish from the ocean who seems quite able to
live in freshwater. By all accounts they are nearly worthless. Not only are
they considered inedible by people but they don’t even make satisfactory cat food.
They arrived at a time when the only fish large enough to be predators, the
lake trout, were almost gone. Alewives multiplied beyond reason and were very
hard on a number of other native species, like perch, because they ate the same
food. Many of you will remember summers when the population of alewives had
outgrown the food supply and they died by the billions only to wash up on our
beaches and rot and stink. Luckily for all of us the Michigan state department
of fisheries was able to pull a rabbit out of the hat. Turns out that in the
ocean the major predators of alewives are salmon. Salmon are all born and then
spawn in freshwater but spend the rest of their lives in saltwater. After years
of effort three species of salmon - Coho,
King and Chinook were adapted to spend their entire lives in freshwater. These
fish were aggressively stocked in the Great Lakes and soon brought the
population of alewives down to a very manageable level. This was a double win
for the state of Michigan since people anxious to catch salmon contribute millions
of dollars to the state economy every year.
Just when it looked like the Great Lakes were back in
balance zebra mussels arrived. These fingernail-sized shellfish arrived in
ballast water of oceangoing ships and went crazy in our lakes. They spawn like
crazy and attach themselves in clusters to anything in the lake that is not moving.
Like all shellfish the feed by straining microscopic food from the water. They
been very damaging to the native population of shellfish because they steal all
the food. They have another effect that has been the good news/bad news result
for the lakes. There so many of them that their feeding has made the water of
the lakes noticeably clearer than it has been in a long time. In Lake Michigan
Lake Charlevoix boy this is generally a good thing. In the smaller inland lakes
this extra clarity of water is been a real problem. Since these lakes are much
shallower the clarity of the water now allows weeds to grow up from the bottom
of the lake. This clogs the lake and boat propellers during the growing months
then creates an even worse problem in the winter. When it gets cold all of
these plants die and then sink to the bottom of the lake where they rot. The rotting
process uses up much of the dissolved oxygen in the water and many of the fish
in the small lakes then suffocate. No miracle cures yet been found zebra
mussels.
The year I was born my grandfather Leatherman, his
brother-in-law and a cousin decided that the family needed a boat. They bought
a 1948 22 foot Chris-Craft mahogany speedboat and named it “Rebels”. The boat
was shared among three or four related families. This made for a hard life for Rebels.
Everybody who reached teenage years wanted to drive the boat and it had to
suffer through the learning curve for every one of them. Despite being a bit
underpowered it would pull water skiers. It can hold about a dozen people in a
pinch and was perfect for general sightseeing and beachside picnics. The fact
that it still in one piece is testimony to its durability. Before the bottom of
the boat was replaced about 10 years ago it sank several times tied to the
docks in the boathouse and it was subject to one rather spectacular sinking in
Lake Michigan off of North point. A relative of mine, who shall remain
nameless, was out touring in one of the years with relatively low lake levels.
He was not aware that shallow water extends way out from the points in Lake
Michigan. Around North Point just
underwater are boulders about the size of a cottage. He hit one of those at cruising
speed sending the propeller and the rudder up through the bottom of the boat.
Despite being made of wood, the steel block of the six-cylinder engine was
enough weight to send the boat straight to the bottom. Luckily the bottom there
was only about 20 feet and the folks from Bellinger Marine pulled it up, towed it
in and put it back together.
Eventually Dick Leatherman and the original owners got
tired of paying the bills and passed ownership of the boat down to the next
generation including my father Jim Orr, my uncle Richard Leatherman and at
least one of the relative. Finally over a number of years the other owners got
tired of paying and my father ended up with the whole boat. His third wife was
not a fan of Belvedere and he came to me one day and asked if my siblings and I
would like to buy the cottage since he was planning on selling it. I exercised
admirable restraint and didn’t tell him that I was planning on inheriting the
cottage the way he did. We negotiated a reasonable deal for the cottage. When I
thought everything was settled my father said to me “Oh by the way, if you want
to buy the cottage you have to take the boat too”. He didn’t ask for any extra
money for the boat, but just wanted out from underneath the bills.