Memories of Barbara Birge Wiseman
In the late 19th century when the Pere Marquette Railroad
laid its tracks from Chicago and Detroit as far north as Petoskey, Michigan it
opened a vast and largely unpopulated area to residents of the river valleys of
the middle west who sought to escape the suffocating heat and humidity of their
summers. The logging industry had visited that country previously and had
wantonly relieved it of its splendid virgin hardwood forests, leaving the sandy
soil of upper Michigan to stumps and fireweed.
Both pairs of my grandparents bought property in
Charlevoix, Michigan on land terraced by retreating glaciers from which there
was a commanding view of Pine Lake, (now Lake Charlevoix). The town was divided
by a small land-locked harbor called Round Lake. On its eastern shore a channel
bridged by the railroad led into Pine Lake; similarly, from its western shore
another channel bridged by Main Street, led to Lake Michigan. My Birge
grandparents built a home on the Belvedere Club grounds on the southern side of
this intervening body of water. The Riddles built on its northern side. (George
Riddle’s brother, Truman, had a home on the adjoining property). lt was in the
George Riddle home that l was born.
Both of these residences were spacious, gracious and
handsome and during the three months of summer continually occupied by a series
of contented relatives of all generations who mingled together in happy
harmony. The delicious fragrance of birch and pine wood which lined the
interior walls and the cheerful cretonnes covering the wicker furniture gave a
warm welcome. Both houses had broad porches for sun or shade, fragrant
fireplaces to take the chill from the rainy days, one bedroom on the first
floor, five on the second, and several on the third to house a corps of servants,
trunks and other assorted items. Especially splendid were the full bathrooms on
each of the three floors. A cook and a maid or two were always in residence; a
local laundress toiled several days weekly, lugging an offensive bundle to her
own home then returning it in neat folds redolent of fresh air and sunshine.
The chauffeurs lived with their families in boarding houses in the town.
Every summer during my first twenty years was spent
healthily and happily in Charlevoix, Michigan. My Father's parents had made
available to us a wonderful cottage on the upper terrace of the Belvedere Club.
Though it was a sacrifice for our parents to endure the long separation (father
could be with us for only two weeks of the season), we children could hardly
wait for mid-June to roll around when we travelled north to that bright
exhilarating land.
Whether from St. Louis, Anderson, or Cleveland, a
day-long train ride followed by a night on a Pullman sleeping car preceded our
early morning arrival in Charlevoix. We slept as little as possible since it
was so exciting to look out on the strange darkened landscapes sliding past our
windows and to check on our progress as we rushed through the lighted stations,
bells clanking stridently as we rolled over the street crossings. Occasionally
the break of day would find us still only in Cadillac or Traverse City, and we
knew it could be several hours before we reached Twin Lakes when we would
explode into frenzied action, put on our hats and coats and gather up the
luggage assigned to us for the stop at the Belvedere. In the early days, before
we made the trip by automobile, Mr. Eagleton would be at the station to meet us
with his open bus which boasted long benches facing each other. A flat-bed
wagon drawn by two weary horses was loaded with our suitcases, trunks and
bicycles and when, after our breakfast we heard the crunch of iron wheels
toiling up the hill, we rushed out to claim our bicycles and ride off. We had
to see if our favorite haunts were just as we remembered them; which friends
would be around to welcome our return, and which cottages would still be
boarded up, showing little promise of soon housing their owners.
A Mr. Brown and his minions had our cottage clean and
orderly for us, having swept out the cobwebs of winter and evicted the
squirrels, mice, bats and spiders which had taken refuge there during our
absence. The sweet fragrance of the untreated birch walls gave us their special
welcome, yet the precious freedom we had to roam in any direction lured us out
of the house almost as soon as we went in. Our first destination was the
ravine, a lovely semi-wild wooded area with manicured paths winding invitingly
through it. An exciting sport which challenged our cycling skills was to start
downhill from the highest spot and gather speed while still maintaining
equilibrium on the treacherously sandy, rutted and root-strewn soil. The west
end of this woodland opened into a sunny meadow, fragrant with timothy grass,
wild daisies and clover and many a languid summer hour was spent there, living
out our fantasies while sharing our picnic lunches with friends. The east end
of this friendly forest had been carved into a deep and rugged valley by the
glaciers bulldozing their way through the primeval landscape, and there the
trees were larger, denser and older and through their leafy tops a rustic
bridge had been erected - an alluring and gently curving structure with a floor
of wide and well-weathered pine boards and railings fashioned into graceful
lacings of pine boughs. ln the center of this bridge was a square shelter with
benches on three sides where we could hide or dream the fairy-tale dreams of
children or simply rest up for further exercise.
Pine Lake was, of course, a place we longed to visit but
the need to get there quickly was not urgent since we were forbidden to go into
the water until we had been “acclimated" to the brisk northern air for
three long days. I know it was a nuisance for all of our mothers to straggle
down to the dock every day to keep an eye on us as we frolicked about in the
shallows, and as we grew older and more daring to clumsily experiment with
fancy dives at the deep end of the pier, it must have been harrowing besides.
It was, however, the daily pattern of our young lives from 3 to 4:30 and we
cared not at all that the mothers could never enjoy a coherent conversation
with each other since their attention had to be riveted on the noisy group of
small “polliwogs" thrashing about in the water. Our cottage was centrally
located on the upper of the two natural terraces, and located strategically at
the head of a large oval park where every night youngsters from all over the
resort gathered to play "Run, sheep, run” or "sardines" or just
plain “hide and seek? Twin majestic oaks across from us were always home base
and this was, in a way, a disadvantage for us since it was easy for mother to
spot us when it was time to go to bed. But this twilight event was a
wonderfully healthy way to burn up our remaining stores of energy and the
freedom we tasted in the dwindling hours of daylight infused the exercise with
a tingling touch of excitement.
My father's parents, Mary and Julius Birge, had a lovely
home which l could reach in less than one minute since running downhill gave me
added speed. The only times l ever felt unwelcome there were when I appeared
too often at the breakfast hour. On early impromptu visits l was invited to
pull up a chair and join the family. I was treated to the most heavenly strips
of crisp bacon and hot toast with honey, no matter that l had just finished a
perfectly satisfactory breakfast at my own home. On subsequent visits, however,
I noticed a declining lack of enthusiasm for these 8 A.M. appearances and no
refreshments were offered, so l got the message. Our cousins, Jerry, Kay and
Buddy Carrier, children of my father's sister, Ada, spent their summers in this
home, and as their ages corresponded closely to ours, we had wonderful times
together.
Grandfather, particularly, was eager to open our eyes to
the world outside our own orbit and he was always planning special activities
for us in which he happily participated. On the Fourth of July when the sun did
not set until almost ten o'clock he invited us all to the Pine Lake beach for a
marshmallow roast and a thrilling display of fireworks which hissed and
exploded in a blaze of colors before plunging to watery extinction. He
organized excursions across the lake to explore the unsettled woodlands where
wild creatures, small and large, lived undisturbed by the reach of man. On
crisp, clear nights when the Aurora Borealis could be seen trailing its gauzy,
pastel veils across the northern sky, he climbed the hill to our cottage to
rout us out of bed. Then he took us to the lake where, shivering from awe and a
brisk north wind, we had a clear view of the celestial extravaganza. Most of
all we loved the cool or rainy days when we would sit around the grate fire in
his cozy living room while he told us of his life as a boy in Wisconsin; when
the country was wild and empty and Indians were their close neighbors. ' From
the time when l was about 8, my playmates and l had the use of a sturdy, bulky
rowboat named the "Barbara," and if we wore life-preservers and
avoided the churning currents of the channel, we could row her over to the shallow
water of Pine Lake's shores to a quiet lagoon just off the bathing beach. There
we whiled away many a summer hour catching tadpoles from its mushy banks and
swinging from the splintery supports of a rustic bridge which arched over the
pool, then splashing into its tepid depths 3 feet below. As we grew older we
were permitted to cross the treacherous currents of Round Lake to ply back and
forth to a much more challenging lagoon which belonged to the Chicago Club.
Before civilization had arrived in the north country and revised much of
Nature's handiwork, this now languid channel had been supplanted by a newly
dredged opening which would permit large boats and an occasional barge to pass
through on their way to serve the lumber industry at East Jordan or Boyne City.
We had been warned never to be boisterous during our expeditions to this
abandoned lagoon to disturb the quiet of the dignified settlement of which it
was a part. We often wondered sorrowfully why none of the children of this
exclusive enclave never came down to enjoy the pleasures we found there.
In Bob Miles’ nostalgic book on Charlevoix, a special
event is pictured._ The date is August 12, 1915, my eighth birthday and I can
count nineteen posing atop the mound of hay on a wagon pulled by a horse. No
doubt there were others who eluded the camera. Marshmallow roasts on the beach
were always well attended and when we became too sophisticated for the simple
outdoor affairs, an evening at the movies was “in? lf father were in residence
he might collect a group of ten or thirteen to cruise across Pine Lake in the
Ada B. for a picnic party on Oyster Bay where we would paddle barefoot on its
fine sands or swim in the placid waters of the narrow bay. We searched
unsuccessfully - and fearfully - for the patch of quicksand where, legend had
it, a pleasant young man was sucked to his death while his sweetheart stood by
and watched him disappear. But the Ada B. was a cantankerous vessel and a trip
in her necessitated a whole day of father's precious time, which he spent in
the boatyard to clean off her spark plugs, adjust the gadgets like the
carburetor and the “mixture? and bail out the gallons of water which had seeped
aboard during her somnolent months. When he finally coaxed her into action and
picked up the chosen passengers at the dock, we sat in a timid circle around
the perimeter of the boat facing the smelly, steamy, greasy black hulk which
was its engine, and as we chugged bumpily through the water we dared not change
our location for fear of lurching against the odious super heated monster which
dominated the entire hull. Few tears were shed when the Ada B. burned and sank
during a fire in her boathouse. '
The highlight of every summer was when father joined us
for his two weeks of vacation. There were many special pleasures we saved for
those occasions and most of them were arranged around the things father loved
to do - picnics in our favorite woodlands or journeys to the secret places
where we did not venture without his guidance. One regular annual expedition
was a hike and picnic at One Mile creek - a languid, crystal clear stream with
a sandy bottom, iron-tinged to a bronze color which flowed into the western
shore of Pine Lake through a lush glade of birches and tamaracks under which
grew delicate pink lady's slippers and blue fringed gentians. A feature of the
menu on these trips was one orange and one peppermint stick for each customer.
After we had eaten our sandwiches the candy was inserted into the center of the
fruit and finally after vigorously sucking, the juice bubbled up through the
candy.
Father loved to ride out to the South Point in the early
evenings to watch the huge orange globe of sun sink into the sapphire depths of
Lake Michigan, already on fire with the blazing colors on its surface. While he
and mother watched the after-glow we children had a rock-skipping contest, the
main benefit of this exercise being the energetic search made up and down the
beach for flat stones. Other nights we would tempt fate by playing
"rock-tag)’ a very tricky game in which we leapt from one boulder to
another in the shallows just off shore, hoping to dodge the slippery green
slime which cascaded like wet wigs from the often submerged rocks. There was
seldom an evening when one of us did not fall in, since that was the main
purpose of the game, although maneuvering for a soft landing was important; the
alternative was cracking one’s skull on a boulder. No matter that we were in
Charlevoix for a vacation, breakfast was always at 7:45 and no one was served
until everyone was present and dressed for the day. The meal was always an
interesting one because of the numbers and variety of callers who came to our
door. A farmer with fresh vegetables made his way around the park drive to the
kitchen door where mother and our current maid would decide on the menus for
the next two meals. In cherry season, growers came up from the Traverse City
area with boxes of this plump purple delicacy and red raspberries, both
cultivated and wild, and freshly picked were brought by Nick Jaworski, a
cheerful young farmer with a thick foreign accent. Timid little flower girls
carried straw baskets overflowing with fragrant bunches of field flowers:
daisies, bachelor's buttons, black-eyed susans, and sweet peas from the dunes,
and 15¢ worth would fill a large vase. A small bunch of nasturtiums cost a
nickel, and for a quarter there were gladiolas, delphiniums, petunias and,
sometimes, roses. Most of the “resorters" never bothered to have gardens
because hollyhocks and poppies, once planted, continued to brighten a small
plot of ground. . Occasional visitors at this early hour were the Indian family
who laboriously toiled over our roads in a crude wooden wagon with heavy iron
wheels which ground the pebbles and sand into the thin macadam surface with a
most irritating grating noise. The wagon was pulled by an elderly mule, which
had to be pushed to get it in motion again. There were several Indian
communities in northern Michigan at that time, most of them stranded clusters
of the Ojibway and Potawatami tribes who hunted and fished in the lakes and
forests and in the short summers coaxed stunted crops of corn and squash from
the unyielding rocky soil. During the long rugged winters they produced
artifacts from the elements provided by their natural surroundings and the
income from this source was probably the only money they ever had. As the wagon
ground to a stop in front of our cottage, the father remained seated on the raw
wooden board in stoic disinterest as the mother and little girl, who was about
my age, seven or eight came to our door. The mother, though fat and unkempt had
a shy dignity about her, and the daughter was graceful and slender with great
black eyes and a ready smile. Her knowledge of English made her the spokesman,
and she told us that her name was Susan Green-Sky-Hill. On our porch, they
deposited their bundles (sheets folded to become bulging bags) on the floor and
from this miscellaneous clutter we made our selection. There were baskets,
large and small, of woven reeds and willow, and boxes which would remain fragrant
for years with the smell of sweet grass. Other boxes of various shapes and
sizes were intricately fashioned of birch bark and porcupine quills, the quills
often dyed and woven into geometric patterns. These homely artifacts were so
cheap to buy that they were regarded as of little value; yet what there are
left today are collectors’ items and in museums. One year the wagon arrived and a small boy
accompanied his mother to our door. When my mother inquired about Susan, the
child told her that Susan had been leaning out of the schoolhouse window when
the peg holding it open had slipped loose, and the window had fallen across her
neck, killing her.
On August 9, 1917, we awoke to the news that mother was
not feeling well and, so as not to disturb her, we were sent to the home of her
parents, across the channel, for the day. We always loved these visits since
one or more of mother's sisters spent their summers there with their children
and we enjoyed the special games we played with our cousins, whose ages matched
ours. Late that afternoon when we returned home we were told that we had a new
little sister whose name was Lane Patrick, honoring my father's mother. I
recall nothing more of that momentous occasion, no doubt because I was too
absorbed in anticipation of a much more important date for me; my tenth
birthday three days hence.
The hotel on the Belvedere Club grounds was a grande dame
in the tradition of late victorian simplicity, built before the efficient use
of space was dreamed of, and occupied quietly by the older gentry who, seeking
to escape the grinding heat of the midland summers, travelled to one place on
the map and stayed there. We children understood that we were too untamed to
appear in the hushed lobbies unless we had an authorized reason to be there.
Yet, at the far reaches of this rambling structure there was a ballroom where
savages like ourselves were sent to be exposed to some of the basic refinements
of civilized society. One of the mandatory activities was a ballet class,
conducted by the Misses Travis, ladies who l thought too elderly to be so
sprightly, yet l see now that they were in their 30s. 0n Thursday nights,
however, we girls looked forward to dressing up in our party finery for an 8 to
9 o'clock sample of the grown-up world of ballroom dancing. About 4 in the
afternoon, mother called us in to wrap our poker-straight dark, damp hair in
rags, and the resulting solid, fat sausages of white sheet strips bounced up
and down on our heads until 7:30 when she unveiled the ten inches of spring
brown ropes. The girls always looked forward to this evening of glamour even
though we had to whirl around with each other most of the time for there were
few boys who relished this kind of punishment.
Our real enthusiasm, however, was for the Sunday evening
Song Service for which our motley group turned out in rude anticipation,
sitting ourselves down in the choicest seats and waiting with unaccustomed
patience through the religious exhortations when, through a perfectly
legitimate maneuver, we could disrupt the proceedings lt was the "custom
for the leader to close the service by requesting a favorite hymn, and if a
pious old lady in the back row did ask for something soulful like "Father
in Heaven who Lovest all" she was never heard, because with one raucous
voice we heathens all hollered for Number 207! For some ghoulish reason we
connected this hymn with our abuse of boating privileges, and we offered up the
chorus with maximum decibels. "Throw out the lifeline, Throw out the lifeline'
we shouted; “Someone is drifting awayl" Though our rudeness certainly
merited immediate dismissal, our elders put up with it for several weeks,
hoping, no doubt that some small seed of piety would spring from the rich field
of the Christian ethic to which we had given polite attention during the
previous hour. Summer was the only season of the year when the draughty old
monstrosity at 311 West Twelfth Street ’ was bearable to live in, but during
those months father was the only one who could appreciate the now- refreshing
currents of air which we struggled so fruitlessly to avoid all winter long.
Thus he was ever alert to improve our living conditions; so when a more modern
home across the street became available, he wasted no time in buying it. This
utter abandonment of the comfortable strictures of Victorian prudery presented
both the parents and young people with the need to re-evaluate the
under-pinnings of their inbred beliefs, forcing them to operate in random
fashion under the individual philosophy of "Let your conscience be your
guide!’
If my parents ever worried about coping with an eldest
daughter who stayed out too late too often doing too many immoral things with
too many "fast" suitors, they were indeed worrying needlessly, for my
deportment was not only vintage Victorian, it was downright dull! The doorbell
rang not, neither did the telephone. l not only had no "IT” l didn't know
what “IT" was. I brought up the rear of this righteous rebellion, content
with the simple pleasures of generations before, and l plodded through my high
school days with blinders on my eyes and dead weights around my feet. My
romantic life consisted of prosaic letters received from Charlevoix beaux.
Rudolph Valentino, the current idol of the silver screen, whose droopy eyelids as
he surveyed the langorous ladies of the desert harem did strike a small spark
in my latent feminity. But my sexual equipment was still too dry to catch fire.
One of my most daring indiscretions was to sneak out of Mary institute one
afternoon with several other sheik-struck students to attend the 2 P M. matinee
at a local movie theatre. During the course of our hero's galloping around the
sandy landscape of Araby he barreled into a group of langorous veiled maidens,
flung out a manly arm, swooped up one of the beauties, slung her across the
saddle and disappeared with her over the desert horizon into the mysterious
land of live-happily-ever-after. This was all heady stuff for a virtuous school
girl, but it represented no more to me than a grown-up fairytale in pictures.
The matinee idol who really tugged at my heartstrings was Richard Barthelmess,
a bungling, clod-hopping farm boy whose honest innocence reaffirmed my own
dedication to clean living unadulterated by the insidious temptations of sex,
cigarettes and disobedience.
We had friends who were not allowed to read funny papers
on Sunday which meant that by the time Monday rolled around they no longer
really cared what mischief the Katzenjammer Kids were up to, or what new
disaster had befallen Mutt and Jeff. Nor were they permitted to do work of any
kind; they couldn't knit, or sew on a button, or clean out a closet, or do
their homework or, even more sinful, attend a movie! Our rules, thank goodness,
were much more liberal and we could enjoy each other's company over a game of
Rook or Old Maid or Authors all of which had their special card decks and therefore
could be used for nothing else. Regulation playing cards were taboo, however,
since they could be used for gambling. On certain Sundays when my immediate
family was free from the succession of childhood scourges which beset us
through these growing years, permitting all seven of us to attend church at the
same time, for the comfort of all concerned, one or two would be promoted to
the prominence of a seat with my grandparents. One particular day Nan, age
seven, and I, age twelve, were holders of this privilege - an honor which made
me feel six feet tall, but to which my sister was crassly insensitive. l truly
believe that unto me that day, and in that pew, was born my sense of social
consciousness which, weak and puny though it was cried out lustily for
nourishment. This was amply furnished by my sister in the form of a continuous
rattling of the program, and although I nudged her repeatedly and warned her
that she was disturbing the peace of the whole congregation, she turned her big
brown eyes to me in defiance and continued rustling her paper. whereupon the
force of this new element in my personality would no longer be denied, and
taking possession of my better judgment, caused me to deliver to the
cantankerous child a sturdy pinch on the thigh. This immediately generated a
series of sobs and twitches which grew in intensity with all further efforts of
mine to suppress them. My grandparents’ attention, meanwhile, had been riveted
in determined concentration on the sermon. Finally when the situation became
too disruptive to ignore, grandfather rose impassively and taking the
miserable, snivelling little brat by the hand, he led her out through the front
of the church in full view of the entire assembly. l remained, shrinking as far
out of sight as possible, aflame with humiliation and frozen with misery; yet
sustained by the assurance that my actions had been for the good of all. Later,
when l approached my grandfather for some solace, he turned his kindly blue
eyes on me and said. "Barbara, l could not be proud of you this morning?
During our summers in Charlevoix, when Freda and l had
reached our teens we demanded freedom beyond the confines of the Belvedere
Resort boundaries. We wanted to go to the movies in town, and if a friend could
command the use of an automobile (there was a Dort, a Ford flivver and a Stutz
Bear-Cat available occasionally) we would cruise to Petoskey to browse through
the tourist shops and buy ourselves a 15¢ ice cream soda. We wanted to go to
the Thursday night dances, with or without an escort, to dance together if
necessary. We wanted to sniff the heady perfume of romance at moonlight
marshmallow roasts on the beach. and we wanted to be done with the plodding
pace of the Barbara for our excursions on the lake. we yearned instead to glide
over the deep blue waters silently in a canoe. Because of our natural giddiness
it was agreed that all of our teenage crowd must pass certain tests before
being allowed to launch ourselves on the treacherous waters, and my Uncle
Stanley, father's youngest brother - unmarried and delightfully available - was
pressed into service to qualify us for this responsibility. His formula was to
invite two of us to paddle around with him for a while. Then, when he pointed out
an interesting area of the shoreline and riveted our attention on descriptions
of its history or natural
characteristics, he would suddenly give a lurch to starboard, upsetting the
delicate balance of the canoe sufficiently so that all occupants would find
themselves flailing about in the water. Uncle Stanley would calmly tread water
until the two pupils managed to right the boat and hoist themselves back
aboard, then he would climb back in. The time when I was subjected to this
treatment, although we had successfully reinstated ourselves, we had neglected
to retrieve the paddles which the waves were rapidly sending downwind, so we
were made to plunge in again to prove that we could get the whole act together.
We were hampered considerably by the regulation which
insisted that we be fully dressed, shoes and all, with a bathing suit
underneath. Bathing attire in those days could weigh two or three pounds dry,
so when wet the added weight demanded a great deal of stamina to stay afloat.
One of the highlights of the Charlevoix summers was the arrival, at 8 AM every
Thursday morning, of the SS Manitou, one of the majestic cruise ships then
plying the Great Lakes. She was on her way from Chicago to Mackinac Island, a
tiny outcrop of land jutting into the turbulent Straits of Mackinac between
Lake Huron and Lake Michigan. Once a season we were treated to a glorious
voyage on this elegant vessel. and once a season all the “help” on our resort
would also enjoy this day-long cruise. We disembarked for the ritual journey
around the island to visit the old tort built during the Revolutionary War;
passed the sumptuous homes which presided proudly over sunny lawns among the
luxuriant hardwood trees and fragrant pines. Back at the harbor we browsed in
the souvenir shops, buying lndian~made porcupine quill boxes, and sweet grass
baskets, beaded belts and jewelry, always saving enough cash (the 75¢ which we
called "pimple" money) for the pound of rich fudge whose recipe is
still used in shops around the country today. Then, in the brilliant glow of
sunset when the sapphire waters were glazed with the sheen of rubies and topaz,
we glided gently into the Round Lake harbor. One Thursday morning. emboldened
by the new expertise from Uncle Stanley's canoeing course, Freda and I decided
to challenge the Manitou -- to what we didn't know. but our purpose was sheer
exhibitionism. We launched ourselves into our frail craft as soon as we heard
the great ship's three bellows to command the Main Street bridge to open for
her, and we bobbed about quietly in the still water until the ship had come to
within a few yards of us. Even though we had been increasingly awed by the size
of the proud vessel as she loomed higher and higher above us, we deliberately
swung the canoe about to take its wake broadside. She was hardly moving and had
thrown her lines to the dock below, but the power of her great rudders produced
such a turbulence that we were capsized into the swirling flood. There was a
cry of “Man overboard!" from a spectator on the ship and soon the rail was
lined with passengers enjoying the sight of two dazed maidens, struggling to
swim out of the whirlpool while groping for paddles and canoe, both of which
were swirling in orbits of their own. Several Coast Guardsmen on duty had
observed our predicament and added to the ignominy of it by shouting, “Come on
girls! You can make it!” When we had finally conquered all of these adverse
elements and were once again installed in our perfidious craft, cheers went up
from all the onlookers. We waved weakly in response but paddled as briskly as
we could in the other direction.
The threat of fire was an ever-present concern among the
residents of the Belvedere community. Most of the cottages were of wood which
had so dried out during the decades of exposure to sun and ice that they were
as explosive as old pine needles. A spark on a decaying shingle roof or through
a crack in the chimney behind the heavy black cast-iron stove could reduce a
home to ashes in minutes. One day during father's annual vacation visit, we
were sitting at the luncheon table salivating over the delicate aroma of the
fresh blueberry pie which had been baked in his honor and which was at present
being served. The raucous wail of the town's fire sirens broke the stillness of
high noon. We held our breaths as the sinister screams climbed seven times -
the alarm for the Belvedere Club! The pie was forgotten (by all but mother who
had learned to sit placidly through such upheavals) as we rushed out through
the doors, each of us going in a different direction to scan the heavens and
get some clue as to where to start running. Art had gone through the kitchen
and the back woodshed and Nan signaled from the park that Art was hollering and
pointing toward the woods. The bicycles which had been scattered about the
front lawn during the noontime break were mounted, and because I was the
fleetest of foot father commandeered mine, leaving me to churn my long legs
into motion to keep up. Within minutes we had gathered near an old cottage at
the edge of the woods where flickers of flame were creeping up the clapboard
walls and beside the chimney and a feather of black smoke was issuing from a
section of the roof. . A number of residents had already assembled on the
periphery of this imminent conflagration and as l leaned against a tree
panting, I noted that people were responding to this crisis in three different
ways. One group had no idea what to do so it lurked at safe distances to watch.
l was one of this number. Then there were those who did something, whether
helpful or not l saw one old man run in and out to rescue any treasures he
could collect. Once he brought out an umbrella stand bristling with fishing
rods and on his next trip he carried a soup tureen and a bust of Napoleon.
Also, there were people like father and Freda who were really helpful. Freda
had learned that the fire department had declined to come because the owners
had not paid the fee necessary to guarantee their services, so she and one of
the boys sped a mile on foot over hill and dale to the city hall to commandeer
the town fire hose. Father assumed charge of the whale bewildered group and shinnied
up an oak tree from which he leaped to the mossy porch roof 129 and then he
ordered all neighborhood hoses to be hooked together and connected to the
faucet next door. When the trickle from that source proved inadequate, he
directed a bucket brigade to pass him water on the roof. Miraculously these
measures contained the blaze and shortly after the crisis was declared over,
Freda and Tom puffed to the scene like Chinese coolies delivering a Mandarin in
a rickshaw. Cheers were their reward. On another occasion when seven wails
pierced the calm summer air, neighbors could be seen running north, so among
those striving to be useful was my Uncle Court who armed himself with the
kitchen fire extinguisher. At the end of the resort premises the crowds had collected
near a small oil storage facility across a highway where firemen could be seen
squirting water at a ground blaze which nibbled at the base of the big tanks.
Since an explosion seemed imminent the spectators dispersed to a less exposed
position and when the small flames were extinguished, Uncle Court returned the
extinguisher to the hook by the kitchen stove.
The most serious conflagration during those years
occurred when the boat houses burned. On the Belvedere side of the Round Lake
shore there were two semi-circular structures each having a dozen or more
separate units where boats of club members were stored. At the far end of one
of these buildings our facility had three slips wherein the Ada B., the Barbara
and two canoes rested from our excursions Since when we arrived on the scene
there was no visible blaze in our area, Uncle Stanley requested that Freda and
cousin Kay remove their middies, their outer bloomers and sneakers and dive
under the doors to see if our boats were safe enough to move out. While Uncle
Stanley was directing this operation from the adjoining dock, the chauffeur,
Fred, had a better idea. He lit a match and opened the land-side door to have a
peek inside. The blast of fresh air ignited the fumes of gasoline which had
floated in from other units and presto! the whole place was an inferno.
Fortunately, the two girls had not yet made their heroic exploration. Thus
ended our sea-faring expeditions for that summer.
There were two families with whom we grew up who were
almost as close to us as our own cousins. Our parents had been friends before
any of them married and as the children of these couples were of similar ages they, too shared a special
friendship. One of these families were
the Finches who lived in St. Louis and often summered in Charlevoix where they
always belonged in our big family gatherings. Herb and I were just one month
apart in age, so our friendship began when we were still in diapers. He was at
Yale when l was at Smith and on one of his visits to Northampton l introduced
him to Eleanor Wood, who later became his wife. Now, in our late seventies,
with a continent between us, we are still in touch, and I cherish the knowledge
that I share with Herb that we have known each other longer than anyone else on
earth. The Finches loved picnics as much as we did, and with girls far
outnumbering boys in our families, Herb and his brother, Parker, were
especially welcome among us. Scully, Barbara. Florence and John Scully lived in
Peoria, Illinois (there are faded pictures of them in Yesterday's Chapter), but
they spent their summers in northern Michigan, not far from Charlevoix. Their
two eldest, Chase and Louise, were the ages of Freda and myself and in the
mid-nineteen twenties we exchanged visits with them in both winter and summer.
The Scullys were avid sailors, and once after we had spent a week with them in
Northport Point (on the peninsula which enclosed Great Traverse Bay) John was
returning us to Charlevoix on Aquila ll over about 35 miles of a very turbulent
Lake Michigan. Freda and Louise had succumbed to mal-de-mer and had retired to
the cabin bunks to suffer until we entered the channel to Round Lake. Chase and
his father were exhilarating in the challenge of controlling the sleek little
vessel as it raced under full sail across the foam-crested sapphire blue water.
I was paying attention to nothing but my own private struggle of mind over
matter as I willed my stomach to settle down. John turned to see that my face
had turned green, and very casually, yet sternly, he said words which have come
to my rescue in similar circumstances in later years: “Keep your nose in the
wind, Barbara!" In 1960, with my husband Bill Wiseman, l visited Florence
in Tucson. Arizona, where she spent her winters with a companion. She was,
"as she always had been, gracious, warm and delightful, though now in
failing health. The conversation had been a routine exchange of family news and
recollections of the wonderful experiences we shared some forty years ago.
Suddenly. with the directness of a bullet piercing a leaf to fly on through
empty air, she said what was on her mind: "Barbara, I had always hoped
that you would be my daughter-in-law.
During the years when my family lived in Nashville l
spent the summers in my grandmother Birge's home. My cousin, Many lane (alias
Jerry Mane, alias Jerry) and l had organized a play group for young girls at the Belvedere chaperoning them from ill-12
and 2-4 daily for a fee of $1 per head. The price was liberal for the times and
for our inexperience but the resident mothers eagerly seized the chance to have their post-nursemaid daughters occupied
and supervised for most of the day. Attendance ranged from perhaps ten or
twelve energetic, high-spirited and sometimes disgustingly spoiled females,
ages six to twelve. lt was quite a trick
to supply them with a common interest, but with the help of our own imagination ands agenerous Mother Nature we
gave them experiences in sharing and learning which enriched them all. Mornings
were spent in "structured" (to use today's jargon) pursuits such as
tennis, on the bumpy but pleasant courts in the woods, where nobody who knew
anything about tennis would deign to play, or nature study, or fishing for
perch off the Round Lake docks, or boating - where we gave instructions in
rowing and canoeing - with emphasis on how to behave on the water. Afternoons
were always devoted to beach activities where Jerry shared her expertise in
aquatic skills while l patrolled the pier trying to keep track of the dozen
slippery tadpoles splashing about in the shallows. We never lost a customer for
which blessing l am still humbly grateful. We were the first pair to offer this
ever-popular service and since that time more than two generations have carried
on, though probably today the government would insist on computerizing
everybody’s credentials. During my third summer at this pleasant task I was
assisted by Kay, Jerry's sister, Jerry having gone to the altar with a
gentleman whom the family welcomed with great enthusiasm because of his
possible future usefulness He was a professor of Bankruptcy at the Harvard Law
School. (Jerry, incidentally, was the first student to be married while an
undergraduate at Wellesley. The college even allowed her to use the lovely
little chapel for the ceremony and to continue her education there!) Freda had
been invited to work with Kay and me, but we could not compete with the offer
to be the prima equestrienne at a girls’ camp in New Mexico; we knew that even
without pay she would have chosen the company of horses.
QUETICO PRESERVE, ONTARIO in mid-August I, too, left the
field to Kay and a friend, to embark on one of the really great adventures of
my life - a canoe trip through the Quetico Preserve of Ontario. Janet had been
a close friend all through our years at Mary institute and Smith. Her father,
Kurt the owner of the largest independent grocery business in St Louis, had
spent the entire winter planning an expedition. There were to be six of us;
three pairs. A bland and very bashful gentleman named Herman was to he Kurt's
partner; Lee, a rather oafish and leaden youth was the companion of Kurt's son
Dick, age sixteen; and l, with of course superb qualifications for vigorous
primitive living, was chosen to accompany Janet. Ed Hager had been invited
before Lee, but he had just been launched into the serious world of business as
factory foreman of the E. S. Hager Paper Box and his father, the boss, was
adamant that Ed learn as soon as possible that life was a serious affair, and
he insisted that Ed stay on the job. No doubt this was the better solution for
the rest of us as well, for Ed and l were so magnetized to each other that Kurt
would have had trouble keeping his pairs in alignment. in Petoskey I boarded a
truncated train of one ancient Pullman and two freight cars which crossed the
Straits of Mackinac on a railroad ferry, then ambled on to Sault Ste. Marie,
Michigan.